Headlight Booster

Want more JUICE out of your stock headlight, and do not want to modify your existing wiring. Click to learn more.

HID charging conversion

Are you tired of Battery depletion everytime you uses your newly installed High Intensity Discharge Headlight, Click for solutions.

Fixing OIL drain plug thread

Are you looking for fixing that oil drain plug that went bad and unable to thread that bolt due to loose thread, Here is an easy solution for, CLICK for detais.

Led Light Solution

Wanting to conserve battery power of your motorcycle? Why not change all of your indicator BULBS, such as signal light, tail light and brake light to LED BULBS. Click for more info.

HOW CDI WORKS

CDI is the heart of your ignition, wanting more power than STOCK but do not want to buy such RACING CDI? You need to know how it work first to understand where to START improving the ignition. Click for more.

Horn Interrupter

Want to have a horn sounds like a machine gun that produces successive sound with only one press of the HORN switch, add spice to that annoying stock horn, CLICK for details.

Reusable OIL filter mod

Paper element OIL filter tends to suffer from clogging, so why not try this filter mod I am using with my small motorcycle for more OIL flow.

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Last Updated: August 29, 2012

Tuning Shogun CARB (for starters)

Shogun FD125xrm, FL125 carburetor are not so difficult to tune for optimal mixture and for maximum performance. Newbies or those who is just beginning to ride a motorcycle of course tend to drop by at any shop they spotted just to make their bike tune in for no particular reason for a carbureted bike without altering intake and exhaust system definitely will not give any problems unless they are ridden hard, usage of poor quality gasoline, using fuel additives, and or riding in a dust prone areas to where the airbox or intake system will accumulate dust particles that will clog the paper air filter of the box.

Fine tuning of the carburetor is sometimes not nescessary if you are just changing air filter, but when it is time for carburetor maintenance, some of the problems may be noticeable as follows below


          



         
              1.       Are you tired of cold starts? Need to raise the throttle everyday to get the cold engine running?
                   2.  Does someone have the same bike as yours and are you tired of losing to him in drag races?
                   3.   Suddenly, the fuel efficiency has reduced after a service?
                   4.  Has the mechanic has screwed up your tuning?
                   5.  Engine gives hiccups when you open the throttle?
                   6.  Or your bike is just missing that smooth acceleration whenever you want?
                   7.  Or your engine overheats even if you did not race too much.

May be the following will help you in tuning your mean machine for optimal power delivery and best fuel economy. This guide aims at tuning the fuel/air screw to give you an optimal air-fuel mixture. An optimal mixture gets maximum performance from your machine.
All the single cylinder bikes, 2 stroke or 4 stroke having a carburetor. Tachometer is very handy and a must for a newbie or the tuning process will be very slow or painful or imperfect.

Turn the idle settings screw so that rpm reaches about 3000 rpm. Now tune the air/fuel screw to make the mixture leanest as possible. Clockwise is for closing the air screw (richer) and counterclockwise is for opening for more air (leaner)
As you make the mixture leaner, slowly the engine RPM decreases… Go on doing this until you have put the fuel screw to the leanest possible point. At the same time, ensure that the engine does not stall, by turning the idle-screw.
Tough ? You’ll get used to it 
OK the engine is running and the mixture is lean. If you notice from the engine sound OR if you see the tachometer, the engine RPM will not be steady at this point. Now very slowly start turning the fuel screw anti-clockwise, quarter to 1/8th turn at a time. You will notice that the RPM increases slowly and steadily. Again, do this very very slowly. Also count the total number of turns as you wind out the screw.
You’ll notice that when you have turned it to about 2-3 full revolutions, the engine RPM slowly becomes constant. It is this point that you must stop screwing more. This probably is the optimal setting for your engine.
Further on, try turning the screw even more and more to 4 revolutions and you’ll notice that the engine RPM will slowly decrease. When this happens, you are just putting in a too rich mixture in your engine. At this point the engine loses all the fuel efficiency and the mixture is not optimal. Repeat the process about 2-3 times. Count the revolutions each time and get the setting which you feel is correct.
OK the engine is humming perfectly, now what? Decrease the idle setting screw to about 1000rpm in the tachometer. When the engine slows down, just twist the throttle. The response should be crisp and quick. It should not give any hiccups! Try shutting off the engine and restarting. The engine MUST start in a single kick or self with out giving throttle. If this happens, the setting is ok. Now get a ride and you’ll notice the difference for good or bad 
You’ll immediately notice change in the engine sound and the throttle response. Your engine can become more smooth or harsh. Another important point is, Ride and Feel. Always take a ride and get the feel of the bike in each gears, check the response and the engine sound. You’ll quickly come to know once you get the feel of the bike that you want to make the mixture rich or lean.
It may take a few iterations before you fix a setting as permanent. Try calculating the mileage per liter and tally it with your setting and the feeling you get.

Remember, this simple tuning process is for those who have no leaks on the intake manifold, as well as for those who have not accumulated dirt inside those carb passageways, and that the air filter is intact or still in its place..

Altering any of the mentioned intake and or exhaust system may definitely have problems such as throttle transition from close to 1/4th throttle to 3/4th up to WOT or wide open throttle.

GUNSON COLORTUNE. If you have access on this kind of REALTIME visual indication of what's happening inside your combustion chamber when you are turning that screw to indicate whether you are on the lean side or rich side part of the mixture.

I'll have my bike top overhauled soon, for will replace valve seal, valve guide, and valves, so it will be needing carb re tuning and i'll once again use this colortune for my VM-18 carb maximal performance be sure to come back here anytime for updates and to show you how it works real time.


Last Updated: August 24, 2012

Baby B-king 250cc (in a glance)

Suzuki already unveil the baby b-king 250cc in europe, in india, and now maybe in indonesia. This motorcycle was inspired on a legendary B-king 1300cc design that was fitted with a more economical, fuel injected 2 cylinder engine that is capable of producing 24hp at 8500 rpm and a torque of 23.8 Nm at 6500 rpm .It was also equipped with a twin muffler for stylish look..Panel was also built with large display and modern look







Inazuma 250cc in terms of technical and transmission specs is equipped with a 53.5 stroke and 55.2 bore on each cylinder with a 6-speed transmission. Not bad for a touring bike. Suzuki philippines must look onto this kind of bike to be more competitive againts honda, yamaha, and kawasaki, and just not rely on those suzuki raider 150cc.

 The panel of the suzuki inazuma 250cc

 Headlight 


 The 2 Cylinder engine of inazuma 250cc

 REAR END VIEW and muffler look




Competition is already high with the arrival of Honda CBR250Fi and possibly soon with the Kawasaki ninja 250R Fi 2013 model, maybe its time for suzuki asia pacific to come up with something like this very soon.

Last Updated: August 21, 2012

Wireless Helmet Stoplight

Wireless helmet stop lamp is a gadget that when you hit your brake, stop lamp at the rear will lit to alert incoming motorist that you are braking, every vehicle must have a red (take note) RED colored stop light to alert them. This wireless helmet stop lamp gadget i think will add safety to a rider during night riding. It works as an additional link with the existing rear brake light via the transmitter that will be wired parallel on the stop lamp wiring. Then the receiver which is embedded on the helmet lamp module will receive the signal from the transmitter.


I am thinking of having such gadget like this a long time ago on my zeus 508w, but of course in my own approach..The DIY thing. Although this kind of gadget is possible ordering online via credit card, which i do not own one, so my only option was to make one just like this but again in a different approach that will be my next project very soon. Will be on the drawing board for this one and i am anticipating it to be very useful to me like my signal lights bar end, and side mirror with signal lights for added visibility at night.

Last Updated: August 14, 2012

FZ16 (with wiring diagram)

The Yamaha Fz16 cool looking naked bike was introduced long ago here in my country. It is called Yamaha Byson in indonesia, equipped with a 150cc engine.

FULL SPECIFICATION:


General information
Model: Yamaha FZ16
Year: 2011
Category: Naked bike

Engine and transmission

Displacement: 153.00 ccm (9.34 cubic inches)
Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke
Power: 14.00 HP (10.2 kW)) @ 7500 RPM
Torque: 14.00 Nm (1.4 kgf-m or 10.3 ft.lbs) @ 6000 RPM
Compression: 9.5:1
Bore x stroke: 58.0 x 57.9 mm (2.3 x 2.3 inches)
Valves per cylinder: 2
Fuel system: Carburettor. BS26
Fuel control: SOHC
Ignition: CDI
Lubrication system: Wet sump
Cooling system: Air
Gearbox: 5-speed
Transmission type,
final drive: Chain
Clutch: Constant mesh wet multiplate

Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels

Frame type: Diamond
Front suspension: Telescopic fork
Rear suspension: Monocross
Front tyre dimensions: 100/80-17
Rear tyre dimensions: 140/60-R17
Front brakes: Single disc
Rear brakes: Expanding brake (drum brake)

Physical measures and capacities

Dry weight: 126.0 kg (277.8 pounds)
Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 137.0 kg (302.0 pounds)
Power/weight ratio: 0.1111 HP/kg
Seat height: 790 mm (31.1 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.
Overall length: 1,975 mm (77.8 inches)
Wheelbase: 1,335 mm (52.6 inches)
Fuel capacity: 12.00 litres (3.17 gallons)

The only drawback i could find on this very nice looking bike was the REAR DRUM brake, that should have been equipped with at least a DISC braking system, nonetheless, for me, this bike is worth watching for future upgrades and improvement to totally dominate the world of motorcycle here in my country.

OTHER COLOR available for 2013







WIRING DIAGRAM 

CLICK to ZOOM

LEGENDS

1. Magneto
2. Neutral Switch
3. Regulator/rectifier
4. Main Fuse
5. Battery
6. Main Switch
7. CDI unit
8. Ignition Coil
9. Horn
10. Signal light relay
11. Front brake switch
12. Rear Brake Switch
13. meter
14. pass light switch
15. park light
16.headlight indicator
17. headlight indicator
18. Tail light
19. TPS
21. positive lead cable
22. negative lead cable
23. starter relay
24. starter motor
25. speed sensor
26. starter switch
27. starter cut relay
28. clutch switch
29. fuel gauge
30. engine stop switch
31. headlight switch
32. turning rear indicator light
33. turning front indicator light
34. headlight HI/LO switch
35. horn relay
36. signal light switch

WIRE COLOR CODE

B- black
Br- brown
Ch- choco brown
Dg- dark green
G- green
Gy--gray
L- blue
Lg- light green
O- orange
P-pink
R- red
Sb-Sky blue
W- white
Y-yellow
B / L -Black / Blue
Br / L- Brown/Blue
L /B--Blue/Black
L/W- Blue/White
O/B--Orange/Black
P/W- Pink/White
R/B--Red/Black
R/L- red/Blue
R/W- red/White
W/Y-white/Yellow
Y/G--yellow/Green
Y/L--yellow/Blue
Y/R--yellow/Red

Last Updated: August 09, 2012

Suzuki Raider Underneath Lights

Costumized brake lights for raider underneath that uses 5mm red, orange leds,